PS2J Blog

From the hearts and minds of those involved

Alan was a backer for the Kickstarter, and we just got to play a game. This is my review!

Overview

Joking Hazard is a party game for 3 to 10 people. The box recommends it to be (im)mature adults, due to its references to sex, violence and basically anything you have seen on the Cyanide and Happiness comic. If that comic is one you enjoy, or you are a big fan of Cards Against Humanity, this will be a great game for you.

jokinghazard1

Gameplay

The game play is really simple. Each player is dealt 7 cards. A player is chosen to be the first judge to start the game, then reveals the top card from the deck. How the turn is played is based on the type of card revealed.

A card with a black border is most common. The judge chooses a card from their hand and places it on either the left or right of the card from the deck. These make the first two panels of a comic. The rest of the players choose a card from their hand to complete the comic and pass it face down to the judge. Randomly selecting and revealing cards, the judge picks what card is their favourite to complete the comic. The person who had the winning card gets it from the judge as a victory point.

The other possibility, is the card has a red border. These are special, as they are usually more unique designs, and they have to be used as the final panel. Now the judge has to wait as the players select two cards, to create the first two panels of the comic. Players pass their selection face down to the judge, then they randomize the piles and reveal them in order. Again the judge selects what pair is their favourite comic, and the person who played the two cards will get them back as points.

Components

The box is solid, which is perfect for taking over to friends houses. Cards are high quality, similar to Bicycle brand playing cards. Alan got a couple expansions with his set, giving us a lot of cards right away. As well as some blank cards for us to write out own text on.

TL;DR

It’s like Cards Against Humanity but with comic panels. Durable to be played a lot.

Verdict

If you and your friends are fans of Cards Against Humanity or Cyanide and Happiness, this game is a safe bet for a good time. And it even comes with official drinking rules. It was a lot of fun and I look forward to playing it again! Its an easy addition to most board game collections, as it can be played to start a game night, or be the last game when everyone has had a bit to drink.

Welp, I got caught in the act of my silly joke. At fast food drive throughs, when I make my order and say I’m done, and they offer me more food, I make an excuse of eating something ridiculous beforehand. And I got called out, and it was glorious.

The rest of the episode has Josh highly caffeinated.

This does not represent PS2J show at all. It’s Josh and whoever being idiots.

Feat. Josh and Ken

So, for the past little while a lot of people have been asking me about how I practice the sorcery of foam. As a rank and file newbie I will show all you fine folks out there just how I work a little foam magic, through a metric tonne of pictures. I’m doing this as a how to esque sort of deal. So sit back and relax, this is gonna be another long one. Above all else though before we begin, change blades often. Sharp is best.

Tools:

Olfa Knife

Hot Glue Gun (high temp preferable)

Pen Knife ( # 11 blade hobby knife)

 

Fine tip pencil (Mechanical)

Pen, any will do.

Conduit cutter (A saw works too)

A bevel cutter (Good for cutting corners. get it?)

Heat gun. Necessity for all foam work right here.

Contact cement(the other glue I use)

Dap acryllic. ACRYLLIC. This is important

Dremel, well loved

Not shown:

metal ruler

super glue

80/150/220/600 grit sand paper

small scissors

…woops.

 

Build Materials:

12mm Eva foam

7mm eva foam ( this piece is sanded smooth on the diamond side)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2mm Craft/fun foam

2mm thick plasticard (Thickness is Important)

1/2 inch conduit

Gap Fill Primer

Plastidip.

 

ON TO THE SHOW!

I began this build by making a set of templates using a computer illustrating program and then printing them out onto 110lb card stock. This process is not being shown for the reason that I forgot to document it… woops. I then opened a bunch of reference images to map how thick and such this build would need to be in order for me to get the best feel for it. Having built a magnum just prior I was able to guess based on that information what I would like this new pistol to look like. From there I cut out this shape. (As a note I will be posting multiple images as I work my way through the steps.)

I started construction with the larger 12mm foam.  I traced out this template twice, and then cut it out using the Olfa knife.. Using my hot glue gun I secured the 2 pieces together, and used the hot tip to smooth down the excess glue.

Little hard to see. 2 pistola bodies.

  

Using a pencil, the conduit cutter and the olfa knife I began by measuring the barrel. Using the conduit cutter, I cut it to the desired length.

 

From here I used the slide of the template, drew down the notches and details along the side and cut out the notches. Next I drew out where the barrel goes. Using the olfa knife again I cut out the hole for the barrel and then secured it with hot glue. Don’t worry about a glue seam here, it will get covered up later.

     

Next up I began to draw out the mag well and work on layering the magnum. I cut out the template for the magazine and then positioned it. Drawing out the position that it would rest in I made sure to leave space on either side. From here I started to plot out the layers on the pistol. I then traced out the lower body onto 2mm foam and cut it out.  After that I set to cutting out the mag well.  Not shown is the mag well post removing what I will refer to now as the blank. I used fresh blades for this and I did not document this as it was very unstable and chose to immediately prevent damage to the build thus far by attaching the craft foam. It’s a matter of rinse repeat for both sides. For all craft foam cuts I used the hobby knife. It’s crazy sharp.

    

After attaching some of the craft foam using the contact cement to keep the build flush at this point I set out to make the pistol more stable. In it’s current state it was very squishy with the blank removed and was not sound enough structurally for my liking. I used the plasticard to make the rear of the grip a point of solid structure. I also secured this into the grip using contact cement. to keep pressure on as it dried I set the blank back into the well. In the back there, the ever illusive tiny scissors.

    

Once the mag well rear wall was secured in place I used a piece of craft foam to help brace a thin spot in the front of the grip where the trigger will eventually go.

Up next was finalizing detail on the grip. Swapping foam colours I kept to the 2mm craft foam and layered on a the grip contouring. I used lepage to glue this down again.  Also a fresh blade. Cutting apart the template further on this one. I used the rear slot template to also pencil down some details.

  

Next up I started on the slide. Hot glue for this one again. I began by cutting out the templates and removing some negative areas. Paying attention you’ll see in the dry fit below that since I wasn’t as careful as I should have been, I developed a slight warp. Using the bevel cutter I trimmed and fit the sides of the slide.

   

From here I used reference images and began to tune the body. It has a long gentle slope. Measuring out what I could see as the correct thickness of the pistols bottom I then took my olfa knife (Fresh blade, always a fresh blade) and scored the slopes. Once satisfied, I trimmed them down. It didn’t come out quite as clean as I wanted but it worked for what it was.

   

Using some sand paper and my dremel I cleaned it up a little. Yes…you can sand EVA. No I don’t recommend it. Yes a dremel is faster. NO I didn’t do this as clean as I would have liked and YES if I had it would not have needed clean up… my bad. Moving right along. If it’s not super clean don’t fret. We’ll be covering it up shortly.

So next up I dug back into the template and began on the next section. Keeping with the craft foam I cut out the cover parts for the front of this little guy. It’s another rinse repeat step. Using contact cement as always.

   

From there, let’s clean up that grip! Change the blade on your bevel cutter or knife. Seriously guys. Keep swapping. I beveled the lead and trail edge of the grip.

  

Much nicer. Actually fit in my hand now.

From here I added in the trigger. I just used craft foam and 12mm eva to make it smooth on both sides. A nice even width big ol squishy trigger. I did craft foam on both sides because I’m a stickler for symmetry. feels good on the hand and is non threatening to the eye. Looks kinda derpy. On my battle rifles I didn’t include a trigger for extra con safe-ness. you can choose to opt in or out. I used hot glue to glue it down.

  

Next I did some detail work. Using the pen I pressed really REALLY hard into those little pencil circles to indent my craft foam without creating a crevice. Just needed that nice little crease.

And viola. We’re cookin with gas. You can really see it coming together.

 

Next up was the guard. To do so I took some 12 mm and like the trigger just double sided it. Lepage cement for the thin foam. And then secured it in place with some hot glue for extra sturdiness. Freshen that blade as always folks.

 

Next up was a little choice detailing. Adding the center dot to that circular recess. I used the other side of the template and cut out the very middle dot, from there I just 2mm foamed it up. It’s all in the details folks. Also by now you’ll start to notice some funky lookin white junk. That’s the dap slowly creeping into the build. I’ll cover it in greater depth in a little bit. Essentially I use it to hide seams and try to round out bad edges.

 

Stepping up, time to get rid of that ugly magazine blank. Taking the mag template and drawing it out on 12mm foam, I took serious care and compensated for the plastic backing. I then cut it out twice, and used hot glue to affix it together. Using the hot nozzle to smooth excess glue again. Do what I forgot to do. Freshen that blade. Either snap or swap.

 

She aint too pretty, but she’ll do for now.

Keeping the pace I decided to craft foam the top of the magnum to cover up that huge ugly seam. Lepage and 2mm again. Once dry I applied some dap along the seams to help hide them. This is what I use dap for. Hiding seams, and helping smooth over some messy areas. It can also spot fill low areas and crevices, but is not structural. It is still squishy so use with care. Taking my pen knife I scored in the details and waited for the dap to fully cure. Once that was done I took my heat gun and used it on the score lines. As eva is what’s known as a closed cell foam, it pulled away from all the cut lines and ended up creating these nice recesses. This is good for adding any panel lines or small detail.

 

This next step is to make the little angle side vents on the back. Measuring and cutting out a rectangle of foam, I used my bevel cutter for those nice 45 degree angles that it has. A lot of geometry on this stuff is 45 degree angles and bevels. Gives it a more sleek look. Trimming the edges I then hot glued it into place. Then I used craft foam to make the rear sight of the pistol.

 

Next I did the back cap to cover up all the ugly seams by simply cutting out and gluing down a square of craft foam, then trimming it with scissors. To detail it I drew on the lines with that handy dandy mechanical pencil, then scored them with the hobby knife. I later hit this with a heat gun to have the foam pull open the score lines. Using a sphereical dremel grinding bit, I dug out the small circular details by the sight.

   

I get a little excited here as I get closer to finishing the build. It all starts to come together so I sort of sped up and took less images. From here I take one of the templates and cut out every other slat on the back vent section. Following that up I took my dremel and used it with a thin grinding bit to carve out the rear vents.

   

Changing directions again I began to finish the chassis of the pistol by covering all the seams in a thin strip of foam. I measured the width of the pistol and began to apply craft foam all around it. Contact cement here again with the thinner foam. I also added a small detail to the magazine to bring out the base just a bit more. From there I used dap on all the seam lines and covered as much as I could to try and blend it all together. This first big apply of dap will get covered by plastidip, and from there I use it about twice more.

     

Next up comes the…mag release? I’m not gonna lie. This weapon has a lot of neat stuff on it. Some of which I just straight forgot (Woopsie). Like a slide lock(Oops) and a safety(mega oops). BUT HEY! I remembered the mag…release? I think.

I can only confirm that the it’s not either of the other 2 things. ANYWAY! So first I cut out a small rectangle of craft foam, and rounded 2 corners on the long side. I used contact cement, glued it in place, then I took my hobby knife and just cut some score lines it and heat gunned it. Quick, easy, and effective. The last thing I do is I reat gun the whole pistol and magazine to seal and heat treat the foam. It should look slightly wet at this stage.

  

After everything was all done I hit it with plastidip. 3 Coats. Thorough. Then…DAP! You’ll get why later.

Looks like chocolate.

From there It’s the first primer coat.

Then Dap.

After this is done, I used the varying grits of sand paper to smooth down a lot of the rough garbage. It also helps to shape the DAP. Yes you can sand dap, No I don’t recommend it. Dap is a last resort. I use it like it’s going out of style. Learn from my mistakes.

Then Prime and Paint…. woah. Done already? Oh yeah. Nice. I seem to have forgotten one last image of this pistol primed, sorry about that. I kind of forgot. Next time I think I’ll show off a wip of painting stuff. I do not know much, but I do know just enough. the paint scheme for this little guy for instance took me about 10 different colours of paint in various combinations. I hope that you all found this helpful, I’ll be posting the templates of this online so you can take a crack at fabricating your own. So for now, SO LONG FOLKS! Enjoy some gratuitous pistol images.

    

 

Miitomo is here! It’s finally here! Seriously, I’ve been waiting for this for over a week. Completely out of proportion for a free-to-play mobile game, but that’s just the kind of guy I am

 

What is it?

In case you’ve been living under a rock (and from a certain point of view you have been. I’m looking at you, Australia) Miitomo is Nintendo’s app-based attempt at a social network, a sort of hybrid of Twitter and Tomodachi Life. You make a Mii, you add friends, and then your Mii will ask you questions and disseminate the info around to your friends-list piece by piece. It doesn’t really seem like a lot, but they finally cracked the mobile app code- micro-transactions and pseudo-currency! You earn currency by answering questions, commenting on answers, adding friends, and changing your clothing.

Yes. You get currency for changing your clothes once a day. This is truly next-level social networking.

 

What can you spend it all on? Clothes! Not for you, silly, for your Mii! It also integrates with the new MyNintendo website (the slightly shittier version of the old Club Nintendo, where you only get points for buying games digitally) to get some currency on there that you can spend on, you guessed it, digital clothes! Also some games and discounts. All digital rewards nowadays, which really begs the question- why do they keep talking about how “availability may vary”? I mean, this is data. If you run out of MarioHat.png, I think you can just copy/paste a few more onto the server.

 

Oh, and before I forget, there is already a thriving community on /r/miitomo of people just adding the heck out of random strangers in order to see what their favourite breads are. No joke, that is an actual question. You can also link in your Twitter and Facebook in order to get friend suggestions or be alerted when people you went to high school with join you in this strangely-compelling social experiment. One thing to note here is that although Nintendo brags about their 1000-friend limit, the rewards stop after you’ve added 20 people. Just to make certain, I personally made the sacrifice of tracking down 100+ randos online and adding them all. Nothing.

 

There’s also Miifoto, where you can take your painstakingly-crafted Mii and put them in a variety of poses/backgrounds/situations with other Miis. It’s entertaining, especially with the fact that you can use those pictures in comments on other people’s posts. You have an array of expressions, animated poses, backgrounds, stamps, etc that you can really let loose with. You can even just throw Miis onto a photo you took with your phone, so that’s pretty slick as well.

 

Last but not least, there’s pachinko! Kind of. Not really. As a way to get certain promotional outfits like pancake breakfast or crazy cat lady (seriously, I’m not even kidding here) you can play a pachinko-esque Mii Drop, in which you drop you and your friends into a machine, bounce around a little, and try to land on platforms with hotdog costumes on them. If you miss all the platforms, you get candy! What’s the candy for? Forcing your friends to tell you their answers, of course! Why would you do that? For more currency! Which you can spend to play Mii Drop! To get more candy! The fun never ends!

 

What does it mean?

At the end of the day, I’ll probably keep poking at it occasionally but I see my time with it slowly lessening in the near future unless I find some really compelling people to friend or they manage to keep the general audience engaged. It’s just enough like Twitter to want some funny/interesting people to follow, but it’s a full Facebook-style friend system so you’ll need to find people that care about seeing your stuff as well.

 

Pros:

  • Crisp, high-resolution Miis
  • Club Nintendo is back (kind of)
  • Custom instant meme-replies to anything with Miifoto

Cons:

  • Adding friends is a pain (Twitter, Facebook, face-to-face, or friends of friends)
  • April Fools, it was just MyNintendo wearing a Club Nintendo skin-mask all along!
  • Mii Drop’s bullshit physics

Verdict:

It’s free, so if you have a little spare time and at least one friend, why not?

There is a exclusive amiibo for Twilight Princess HD, I got it, so let’s review it!

 

First Impression

The box looks epic. Reflective background with all the important characters portrayed on the front. The left side has a diagram of the game disc and amiibo, a simple description of the box contents. The back has more about game features such as the GamePad being a live map and the Wolf Link amiibo unlocking a challenge mode called the Cave of Shadows. It also has a collage of gameplay screen shots. Finally the right side has an explanation of the amiibo features, and includes Legend of Zelda amiibo from the Super Smash Bros collection.

 

Playing the Game

My experience was with the Gamecube, and this update feels just as awesome as when it first came out. It controls on the gamepad very well, the touchscreen can act as a map or inventory screen. The map proves very handy for navigating, as it live updates and shows objectives. With the inventory screen, you can drag equipment right into the eqip slots. The game can also be played with the Pro Controller. I can understand the switch for comfort. You can use the Pro Controller and reference the Game Pad, I find it easier to just use the Game Pad.

 

Combat feels intense at times, and makes you think. You are taught how to do different strikes, such as horizontal, vertical and a stab attack. And enemies you encounter will have different blocking styles or stances that make your different attacks more effective or even useless. As Wolf Link, combat is very different. When fighting Twilight Beasts, more strategy is involved than combating regular enemies. When you are fighting the usual mobs, Wolf Link, can bite, lunge and spin attack, until all enemies are defeated. The Twilight Beasts put Wolf Link into an arena and while you’re trapped with these monsters you have to use Midna’s help to quickly defeat enemies simultaneously, or the last beast standing will revive his comrades. So in addition to attacking and dodging these beasts, you have to position them close enough to use Midna’s Dark Energy Attack. Once all the beasts are tagged by dark energy, Wolf Link lunges and defeats selected enemies.

 

Some of the levels can feel large, although Link starts with Epona and Wolf Link has a full sprint, which makes these levels easier to traverse. While riding Epona, this game introduces mounted combat to the Zelda franchise. Sometimes it feels like wildly swinging at opponents, but it really gives an epic feeling to charging into battle.

 

Items in the game range from new and awesome to adventurer standard. A quick list of standard hero equipment are: Bombs, Bottles, Fishing Rod, Bow, Lantern and Slingshot. Pretty standard fare for the adventure gamer. This LoZ installment has many awesome new items, some are my even my favourite. First of all, there are some neat bombs: Bomblings, bombs with bug legs, they run straight when set and chase enemies, and Water Bombs can be used underwater. Ball and Chain is exactly as it sounds- as a replacement for the standard hammer Link has a gigantic ball which he can use to smash into breakable obstacles and swing into enemies for massive damage. Clawshot is a cool change to the hookshot, even better is that you eventually get a second one, and can sort of Spider Man between latchable points. The Dominion Rod is used to animate statues to complete puzzles. The Gale Boomerang is the boomerang for this game, with the added bonus of a tornado that can move items and effect the environment. The Hawkeye is a mask that can let Link see further and can also be a scope for the bow. The Spinner, a large top Link can ride, it gives a short boost of speed and can travel at high speeds on rails. And finally, just for the HD remake, there is a Ghost Lantern. It glows when a poe is nearby to make collection easier. There are other small items that will make the game easier, but don’t have a huge benefit to gameplay.

 

Another addition to this edition is Hero Mode. It is a homage to the Wii release of Twilight Princess, where the entire game is mirrored. Also this will be a challenge to any Zelda veteran. The stakes are raised with enemies dealing double damage and hearts not naturally occurring in the game.

 

Amiibo

Besides the new Wolf Link amiibo, the past LoZ amiibo from the Smash Bros collection work with this game. Wolf Link is a great figure, the fur has a good texture and paint job, and the rock he is standing on brings this amiibo one step above. Giving it an epic pose without compromise of the default amiibo pedestal.

 

The additional content of the Cave of Shadows, unlocked by the Wolf Link amiibo, is definitely worth it for the fan looking for a challenge. It has a second small feature which I like. You can associate the Wolf Link amiibo to a save file. Then when you are on the title screen you can tap the amiibo and it will load your save, which will save literally seconds. Not a selling feature, but neat nonetheless.

 

As a bonus; Link, Toon Link, Zelda, Shiek, and Ganondorf amiibos have effects that can be used once every 24 hrs. The Link amiibo refill your arrows, Zelda and Shiek will refill your health, and Ganondorf will cause you double damage.

 

TL;DR

A good game with better graphics for a new generation of gamers. Great exclusive amiibo, and a nice use of existing LoZ amiibo. Game Pad is used effectively. Combat is engaging and fun. Extra modes such as Hero’s Mode and the Cave of Shadows proves a challenge to any gamer.

 

Verdict

If you are a fan of the game from its original release, it is great to pick up and play again. The amiibo bundle is worth it for additional challenge, and the figure itself is well made. This will be a great addition to your Wii U library, a must buy for fans of adventure games.

 

If you never have played a Legend of Zelda game, this is a great way to get into it.

 

The only reason I can think of for not buying this game is if you do not own a Wii U. But I hope you can find a way to play it.

Twilight Princess HD Review